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 Weaving brocades on a traditional
loom.
 Handing over the craft to the younger
generation.
 Many families resume
the traditional weaving.
 No In, a young
weaver-artisan in Phum Xoai.
 Product quality
check.
| Phum Xoai brocade weaved by
the Cham ethnic people from the South-western
province of
An Giang
has long been sought-after
nationwide because of its unique designs and colours. In recent years the
product has reached out to customers in many countries.
Phum Xoai brocade, named after a
hamlet in Chau Phong Commune, Tan Chau District of An Giang Province is a
traditional handicraft article weaved by the local Cham ethnic women. This
South-western province has been known as one of a few localities where
unique cultural characteristics of the Cham people have been preserved.
Besides farming and fishing, the local Cham make a living by involving
themselves in such crafts as weaving, embroidering and knitting that turn
out various kinds of products, including towels, sarongs (dress of the
Cham women and also Malaysian and Indonesian women), brocade and other
items unique to Cham living in southern Vietnam.
Weaving
brocade has been practiced for a long time in Phum Xoai. However, at one
time the weavers met with difficulties in finding materials and selling
products. Many had to quit weaving to do another business that put this
traditional craft to the risk of disappearing.
Facing
this situation, in 1997, leaders of An Giang Provincial Industrial
Department decided to establish a textile cooperative, named Chau Giang
Textile Cooperative. The Coop’s 50 members were supported with loans from
the province’s fund for industrial expansion encouragement with which they
could restore their weaving business. The local skilled weavers were
encouraged to take the lead in improving the weaving techniques. For
example, they don’t use their hands to throw the shuttle back and forth,
instead they hold a string that ties to the ends of the shuttle and pull
it back and forth between the thread. By doing this, the weavers can speed
up the weaving process 10 fold.
I talked
with No In, a 19-year-old weaver in Phum Xoai. After graduating from high
school, she learned the traditional craft of weaving, knitting and
embroidering brocade ordered by customers. She said: “My monthly
salary is a bit more than 1 million VND which is enough for my expenses
living in this rural area. But most rewarding of all is that I can
practice doing the craft I love so much, and enjoy seeing many customers
buy brocade weaved by me and my villagers.”
Artisan Se
Mak owns three looms from which she can earn a stable income. Her two sons
are studying abroad while her daughter is joining her in weaving brocade
at home.
Chau Giang Cooperative can turn out
160 types of products with an average turnover of more than 100 million
VND per month, and about 65% of the products have been ordered by the
customers, including those from the Southeast Asian countries,
India ,
Japan ,
Canada and the
United States
. Phum Xoai
brocade won awards at six “Made-in-Vietnam Goods of High Quality” fairs.
Particularly, Ikat brocade with a cloud design and another with mulberry
flowers are much sought-after by the customers. According to artisan Se
Mak’s experience, the success lies in the dying and designing processes.
Phum Xoai brocade is weaved with the bark of the Pahud tree and the resin
of the Kalek tree is used to dye the threads, which makes the product’s
colours brilliantly jump out and they don’t fade over time.
Weavers at
Phum Xoai Hamlet are now operating under the model of communal tourism in
co-ordination with traditional crafts, including weaving, and product
sales. This will help the Cham weavers preserve their craft and further
develop it. Images of the Cham women sitting at a weaving loom leave good
impressions on the visitors to this area.
 Phum Xoai brocades are
always much sought-after by tourists.
Story by Huu Thanh - Photos by Le
Cuong, Minh
Quoc
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